In the early Miocene period, the hills of Tuscany were submerged under sea level due to the Earth’s violent movement. This led to the creation of valleys, which were later flooded by seawater. When the tides receded, they left behind more than silence — they gifted the land with deposits of calcium carbonate from ancient seashells. Over time, these deposits transformed, through recrystallization, compaction, uplift, exposure, and weathering, into the alabaster and limestone that now define Montalcino’s geological tapestry.
To speak of Montalcino’s wines without acknowledging its rocks is to tell an unfinished story. And while I’m just an inspired geology enthusiast who knows that alabaster perhaps does not directly influence the vines’ roots, it reminds me of an ancient sea’s embrace. It hints at the untold depths of the soils — a geological mosaic of clay, galestro, limestone, alluvial gravel, and fossils — each layer contributing its own riff, where the terroir plays both melody and counterpoint, shaping wines that resonate with both complexity and authenticity.
During my first visit to Montalcino, I made my way to Uccelliera, renowned for producing Brunello di Montalcino, a beloved Sangiovese gem in the world of wine. The estate is situated in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, a quaint little hamlet that has a magnificent abbey (Abbazia di Sant’Antimo) that was constructed from now-abandoned quarries of alabaster/white onyx, a variation of travertine. The area, located in the southeast of Montalcino’s hilltop, overlooks the Orcia River and lies adjacent to the dormant volcano, Mount Amiata.
Uccelliera is a boutique property of 6.5 hectares. Owner Andrea Cortonesi previously worked at esteemed wineries such as Ciacci Piccolomini, Poggio di Sotto, and Mastrojanni before establishing his venture in the mid-1980s. The winemaking style at Uccelliera is predominantly traditional. The wines are characterized by fruity red brightness, refined tannins, and minimal to no new oak influence. Andrea’s style showcases grapes from three different elevations where his vineyards are located.
Eager to arrive, I accidentally took a wrong turn,
The gravel road narrowed, flanked by towering shrubs and ancient trees, until suddenly, massive slabs of white and tan stone appeared like sleeping giants, their striations a frozen record of time.
What is this magical place hidden below the town of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, where I can now hear the Orcia River not too far in the distance, a forest crawling wild with vegetation, yellow crowns of blooming Ginestra (Scotch Broom), and a rare partridge sighting? Was this the most advantageous diversion to encounter an abandoned white onyx mine … which evolved from dehydrating seas? Indeed, it was.
I was lost, yet I felt a profound connection!
Montalcino is a spectacular example of complex geology fully immersed in a landscape that is rich in biodiversity with forests and vegetation that supports a variety of flora and fauna.
We also know that the soils in Montalcino are generally rich in minerals due to the region’s complex geological history. These minerals can affect the vine’s growth and the grapes’ composition, contributing to the wine’s unique characteristics.
Here, in the ‘subzone’ of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, located in the southeast of Montalcino’s hilltop, the area overlooks the Orcia River and lies adjacent to the dormant volcano, Mount Amiata. A lovely patchwork of soils – sands, limestones, and clays – at altitudes ranging from 150-400m – facilitates wines of great complexity and character.
Being in a warmer southern sub-zone of Montalcino, it is protected from cold easterly winds by the extinct Amiata volcano on one side, and it is open to salty hot Mediterranean winds from the west. Generally speaking, this climate leads to wines that are darker, richer, more mouth-filling, ready-to-drink-earlier (but also age well), and exotically heady than those from north of Montalcino.
After treading this land and feeling the freshness at the highest elevation ridge to the closeness of the river in the clearing between the woods and white onyx wonderland, it is clear why Montalcino’s soils and microclimates play a significant role in the characteristics of its wine.
Each soil type adds unique characteristics to the wines. Galestro, compressed layers of clay schist, produce wines with structure and minerality, while the limestone-based Alberese soils impart elegance and balance. Meanwhile, the calcareous clay soils, found in the lower elevations, add richness and roundness to the wine’s profile. The combination of these soils at different elevations allows winemakers to create wines that showcase a wide range of flavors, textures, and aromas, adding depth and character to the wines.
Ucceliera’s Brunello di Montalcino combines fruit from all three elevations. The wines typically exhibit intense aromas of ripe red fruits, such as cherry and plum, along with floral notes, earthy undertones, and hints of spice. They are full-bodied with well-integrated tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, lingering finish. With age, Uccelliera’s Brunello di Montalcino wines develop additional layers of complexity, offering nuances of leather, tobacco, and dried cooking herbs.
Let’s not overlook Rosso di Montalcino, a younger, more approachable wine compared to Brunello di Montalcino. Also made from Sangiovese grapes sourced from the same vineyards as Brunello, Rosso di Montalcino, it offers a youthful jam session into the estate’s essence.
These wines typically display bright red fruit flavors, lively acidity, and silky tannins. They are versatile and food-friendly, pairing well with a variety of dishes.
Uccelliera’s wines are crafted with meticulous attention to detail, reflecting both the characteristics of the terroir and Andrea’s skill and passion. “Tasting” the different elevations and walking through the vineyards is a sensorial journey through the unique expressions of the southeastern part of Montalcino.
The land itself rocks, its geological notes blending into a raw undercurrent beneath the vineyards. Like the late Charlie Watts’ drumming style – deceptively simple, but effective and in the pocket. And so likeable.
After treading this land and feeling the freshness at the highest elevation ridge to the closeness of the river in the clearing between the woods and white onyx wonderland, it is clear why Montalcino’s soils and microclimates play a significant role in the characteristics of its wine. They are the amplified expression of an ancient geological saga, bottled history, and silent stone transformed into something alive and evocative.
One of the most important things for producers like Uccelliera is to “protect nature, listen, watch, and work with it.” This perspective and approach lead to wines that are authentic, thoughtful, and charged with the kind of intensity and energy that will always take me back to the rock.