I had just returned from a sunrise walk through the vineyards at Tenuta Regaleali—nestled in the heart of Sicily—when Alberto Tasca noticed my shoes, caked with mud. I looked down, thinking I should probably scrape them clean before stepping into the elegant courtyard or the beautiful room they’d provided for me.
Alberto greeted me with his warm, easy smile. “See her shoes?” he said, gesturing toward them. Valerio, one of the estate’s hospitality hosts and wine educators, looked over. Now I was really embarrassed.
“This is a good brand,” Alberto said. “They do a great job. Very sustainable. You should look into them.”
It wasn’t about the mud. Of course it wasn’t. Suddenly, it made perfect sense. If Veja—the sneaker brand attached to my feet – were to spiritually align with any winery on earth, it would probably be Regaleali. Like Veja (which means “look” in Portuguese), Regaleali looks deeply—at the past, the future, and especially at what lies beneath. The materials might differ—grapes, soil, and glass versus rubber, cotton, and forests—but the thinking runs parallel.
From the moment I arrived, welcomed with house-made elderflower water, sustainability and biodiversity have been constant themes. Not in a rehearsed way, but as if they are woven into the historic walls of the estate.
Just a few hours earlier, I had arrived with a small group of journalists after a two-hour drive from Palermo. We passed through gritty yet charming streets, eventually giving way to vast grasslands and softly rolling hills dotted with mature, broccoli-shaped pine trees and prickly pear. The land bloomed in countless shades of green. My excitement stemmed partly from sentiment: just three months prior, Regaleali wine had been poured at our son’s wedding in Las Vegas at Monzù. But the rest of the magic revealed itself once I stepped onto the estate.
Regaleali is a kind of viticultural Narnia. Almost immediately, we were talking about their six hills, 12 different types of soils and 55 indigenous and international vines – the very treasures that makes up the 500 hectares of the historic estate. The centre of the Tasca d’Almerita family business was originally a royal stronghold (from the Arabic Rahl Ali, meaning “the house of Ali”) focused on grain cultivation. Now, under the vision of the Tasca d’Almerita family, it has become a living laboratory, a lush oasis in the highlands between Valledolmo and Vallelunga. Its location, high above sea level and far from the coast, gives it a more continental climate, with cold winters and dramatic day-night temperature shifts in summer—ideal conditions for growing grapes rich in flavor and fragrance.
Here, sustainability isn’t just a slogan or sticker—it’s measured, reported, and practiced. They blend age-old techniques with modern solutions, ensuring that future generations inherit something even better. Alberto’s vision is refreshingly non-dogmatic: use what works, honor what came before, and always aim for better—environmentally, socially, and sensorially.
In the central gathering space, we enjoyed plates of pasta with just-picked wild herb called mazzarelli (in Sicilian dialect), the most flavorful panelle I’ve ever tasted, and rich, sweet-and-sour caponata. We sipped Almerita bubbles, Regaleali Bianco (Catarratto, Grecanico, and Chardonnay), and the estate’s Nero d’Avola. The immersion into biodiversity continued with a show-and-tell of wild herbs and an illustrated foraging guide, followed by a tray of just-picked specimens—a delight to the senses.
Then came the jeep safari. We jived and rolled across the estate until Valerio jumped out and yanked a towering fava plant from the soil. Not for dinner, but for the land—its roots fix nitrogen, and soon the whole plant would be worked back into the earth to restore and nourish.
One stop brought us to the oldest vineyard on the estate: about 7 hectares, with 5.5 planted in 1959 to co-mingled Perricone and Nero d’Avola vines. These historic vines are the source of the vibrant and exuberant Rosso del Conte.
We drove past more hills and vineyards to reach one of two culinary herb gardens. Walking through this lush plot, I crushed leaves and flowers between my fingers, releasing aromas that summoned memories of meals—Japanese curry, turmeric, nutmeg, cinnamon, sage, bay. A savory, citrusy, herbal delight.
Regaleali is a visionary place, even for the well-traveled. It defies clichés of Sicily as merely a sun-baked island dotted with cacti and olive trees. Here in the center of the island, Regaleali is green and alive—an agricultural jewel and cradle of progressive viticulture. It’s a modern farm in continuous experimentation: intuitive with international varieties, yet fiercely protective of native vines.
Environmental responsibility is part of the DNA. With 25+ grape varieties in production, experimental plots, 57 hectares of protected natural zones, olive groves, pastures, woodlands, orchards, almond trees, and grasslands—it’s a patchwork of biodiversity. Regaleali is also at the forefront of SOStain, Sicily’s sustainable viticulture program. The initiative requires annual reports—transparent and measurable—charting good practices and year-over-year improvements. The social impact is just as meaningful, creating jobs and pride for local communities.
Back at the courtyard—the heart of the Regaleali estate, built around 19th-century limestone farmhouses—everything is tended with love. Native aromatic plants grow alongside vegetable beds and fruit trees. Rare herbs like oregano from the Hyblaean Mountains and basil from the Madonie range thrive here.
As I stood there once more surrounded by a panorama of herbal scents and the hush of the land, I couldn’t help but marvel at the quiet symphony of intention all around me. Everything here has purpose, and it all speaks to a deep respect for the earth and for future generations.
From the ladybugs and wooden bug houses, to bees buzzing between blossoms to biodegradable materials replacing what once harmed. Lighter bottles, energy-conscious practices, chemical-free farming, perennial hedgerows, the grassing between the vines, and the lakes that lure back wild birds. And above all, wines that are not only safe and delicious, but also bring people together – gathering people from all corners of the world around the same table.
And so we return to my mud-caked sneakers. Because in a place like Regaleali, even your shoes are part of the conversation. Like Veja, this estate invites you to tread closely: at what’s beneath your feet, what’s growing beside you, and what legacy is being built for those who come next. One walks away from Regaleali not just with a deeper understanding of wine, but with a sense that sustainability is a mindset. And sometimes, they hope it even sticks to your shoes.