Within hours of the devastating 1968 earthquake, locals of the village of Gibellina were offered the opportunity to obtain a passport and a one-way ticket out of Sicily. Some packed their belongings, others stayed and put the pieces of their lives together over the next 12 years. What they didn’t know was that their tragedy would become a canvas of creativity and renewal.
During the town’s reconstruction, Gibellina’s mayor, Ludovico Corrao, decided to rebuild not just with bricks and mortar but with inspiration and hope. He invited renowned artists and architects from around the world to reimagine the town, resulting in a bold fusion of art and architecture.
The most striking of these contributions is the Cretto di Burri, a monumental land art piece by Alberto Burri. Stretching across the old town’s ruins, the massive concrete maze preserves the memory of the streets and alleys that once bustled with life. It stands today as a testament to resilience.
Seven miles away from the seismic destruction, the “new” Gibellina is today an open-air museum. “Stella di Ingresso,” a striking star-shaped metal structure created by Pietro Consagra in 1981, stands high above the surrounding scrubby land. The massive piece acts as a welcoming gateway to the region and draws inspiration from the twinkling lights used during local festivals.
And, at the heart of this artistic revival is Tenute Orestiadi, named after the Orestiadi Foundation, which celebrates the shared art and cultural heritage of the Mediterranean region. The winery vividly captures the spirit of Gibellina blending wine and art, showcasing how the collaboration between these realms enriches both, creating a space where every sip of wine tells a story, and every piece of art embodies the land’s essence.
Orestiadi’s vineyards are rooted in Sicily’s western side, where indigenous grapes like Nero d’Avola, Grillo, and Perricone thrive. Their flagship wines, such as “Ludovico” (Nero d’Avola + Cabernet Sauvignon) embody the richness and complexity of the region, while the aromatic Zibibbo offers a fresh take on the island of Pantelleria’s iconic grape. But, the “Petramater” Metodo Classico Carricante is as much celebratory as it is cerebral.
Three types of soils can be found in the Orestiadi area, reflective of the earthquake, the Belice River, and geologic time. The red soils, rich in sand and skeleton, are ideal for growing black grape varieties such as Perricone. The dark soils on the rolling hills of the Trapani hinterland are resistant to drought and ideal for numerous varieties of both red and white grapes, and the white soils, characterized by limestone and gypsum in the hills of the Belìce Valley, is ideal for the cultivation of autochthonous white varieties such as Grillo, Zibibbo, Inzolia, Catarratto.
Each Orestiadi bottle shares the common intent to showcase and enhance the native grapes that are grown in the area.
But Orestiadi is much more than a winery; it’s a cultural ambassador. Within its estate is the Museo delle Trame Mediterranee, where fascinating Mediterranean textile art and contemporary works of art are on display. A salt mountain with larger-than-life metal horses by Mimmo Paladino emerges from the central courtyard. In a similar fashion, a patina green horse lies on its side. Vivid, pure, and curious.
Inside the granary are creative contributions that take us from the Middle East through North Africa, Spain, France, and Sicily. A visual delight juxtaposing objects from different eras and origins allows offers an evolutionary immersion of artistic development of the Mediterranean – arabesque, pseudo-writing, intertwined geometries.
The story of Orestiadi beautifully intertwines with that of Gibellina. Together, the winery and the town invites visitors to explore a place where creativity and resilience flow as freely as wine. It’s a heartwarming reminder that even in the face of tragedy, beauty and inspiration can emerge and thrive. We can all raise a glass (of “Kemar” Catarratto) to that!
(This visit was made possible by the generous support of Gran Via and Tenute Orestiadi. Thank you for the opportunity to explore the land, the wines, and the art of the remarkable and beautiful Sicily.)